Chateau Carbonnieux 卡本尼尔堡品鉴指南

Chateau Carbonnieux(卡本尼尔堡)是位于 Graves 产区的 Crus Classés de Graves,1953年,波尔多 Graves 产区设立了自己的分级制度,评选出了 16 家列级酒庄,Graves 的分级制度是按红白酒分开去评审,酒庄的红酒入选了列级庄级数,不等于他的白酒也必然是列级庄,当时,红白酒都能入选成为列级庄的酒庄,只有 6 间,Chateau Carbonnieux 就是其中一间同时入选的酒庄,(当然 Chateau Haut-Brion 亦都是其中一间),Graves 的分级制度一直都现在都没有什么大改变,优良的传统一直留存下来。

据记载,Chateau Carbonnieux 的名字可能来源于一个名为“Carbonius”或“Carbonnieu”的家族,该家族的成员在13世纪初开垦了 Leognan 附近的土地,而据 1234 年的资料显示,酒庄所在之地在当时就已开始种植葡萄树。1519 年, Ferron 家族入主酒庄,并逐步将其打造成为一个拥有城堡、高塔和优质葡萄园的庄园,酒庄在 Louis XIV 统治时期达到了发展史上的第一个巅峰。两百多年后,Ferron 家族因财政危机将酒庄出售给本笃会(Benedictine),修道士们投入大量资金以提高酒庄白葡萄酒的品质,经过一段时间发展之后,酒庄的白葡萄酒成功赢得了广泛声誉。1786 年,热爱美食与美酒的 Thomas Jefferson 在担任美国驻法大使期间参观了几家波尔多名庄,其中之一便是 Chateau Carbonnieux,Thomas Jefferson 亲手种下的美国山核桃树至今仍存留在庄园中十分显眼的位置。此外,18世纪时,酒庄的白葡萄酒还被引入奥斯曼帝国(Ottoman)的苏丹(Sultan)王宫,由于这些葡萄酒有着清澈透亮的颜色,因而被誉为“Chateau Carbonnieux 的矿泉水”。

18世纪末,Chateau Carbonnieux 因法国大革命影响而被充公,革命结束后又历经多次易主。1956 年,酒庄被 Marc Perrin 收购,自此开启酒庄发展的新纪元,如今 Chateau Carbonnieux 已在 Perrin 家族传承至第 4 代。Perrin 家族收购酒庄后,重新种植葡萄园,逐渐将葡萄园面积由原先的 45 公顷扩大到如今的约 92 公顷。Marc 之子 Antony Perrin 曾任 Union des Grands Crus de Bordeaux(简称UGCB)主席,经验丰富,对 Pessac-Leognan 产区风土有着独到的理解。他为酒庄兴建了现代化酿造车间和酒窖,并修缮了城堡以及葡萄园,极大地提升了酒庄的知名度及葡萄酒品质。

目前,Chateau Carbonnieux 的葡萄园面积约为 92 公顷,其白葡萄种植面积与红葡萄面积相当,分别为 42 公顷和 50 公顷,这也使其成为 Pessac-Leognan 产区白葡萄种植面积最大的酒庄。红葡萄品种包括 60% 的 Cabernet Sauvignon、30% 的 Merlot、7% 的 Cabernet Franc 和 3% 的 Petit Verdot,白葡萄品种则包括 65% 的 Sauvignon Blanc 和 35% 的 Semillon。葡萄园内的土壤类型丰富多样,包含深层砾石、沙石、黏土和石灰岩等,这意味着酒庄可以依靠精确的地质图因地制宜地种植最佳品种。酒庄将葡萄园细分为 119 个地块,每个地块均有自己的特质,这些特质最终将转化并展现在酒液中。此外,酒庄推行可持续发展的种植模式,杜绝使用除草剂和杀虫剂等化学制品,尽力维护葡萄园内的生物多样性,提高葡萄植株本身的自然防御能力。目前,酒庄已获得由法国农业部(French Ministry of Agriculture)认可的高环保价值(Haute Valeur Environnementale,简称HVE)三级认证(三级是最高和最严格的认证级别)以及ISO14001环境管理体系认证(Environmental Management System)。

葡萄达到最佳成熟度时,会由人工进行采摘,采摘工作委托给当地熟悉壳白仙城堡葡萄园的工人们进行。采摘后的葡萄会迅速被运往酿造车间,根据地块或是葡萄品种特点的不同分批次进行酿造以及陈年,通常红、白品种各会被分为 20-40 个不同批次。在酿造白葡萄酒时,经筛选后的葡萄会被放入先进的气囊压榨机中进行缓慢而轻柔地压榨,之后进行 3-4 天的低温浸渍,然后再分批次地在橡木桶中进行发酵。酿造红葡萄酒时,葡萄在去梗前后会进行两次筛选,然后经过轻柔压榨的葡萄会进入温控不锈钢罐中进行低温发酵,发酵时间约为 28 天,期间还会进行压帽(Pumping Over),之后还要进行 Malolactic Fermentation,发酵结束后的酒液会通过重力被运往橡木桶中进行陈年。在陈年过程中,白葡萄酒会根据所需橡木风味多少而在容量不同的橡木桶中进行熟成,新桶比例通常为 25%,熟成时间为 10 个月,期间会定期搅桶以增加酒液的饱满度。红葡萄酒则会在法国橡木桶中熟成约 18 个月,每年会更新三分之一的橡木桶。陈年即将结束时这些酒液会迎来混酿过程,混酿好的葡萄酒会进行澄清(红葡萄酒采用蛋白进行,白葡萄酒则使用天然矿物质)并装瓶。

伸延阅读:

各位酒友如果有兴趣想铺道 Graves 区的分级制度和更多 Graves 区列级庄的资料

Château Carbonnieux red has for centuries been a great classic from the region of Bordeaux. With its high standard of quality, it is the smooth result of an excellent blending of grape varieties from this region.

The vinification, both modern and traditional of red wines, is carried out by slow and gentle extraction in order to preserve the roundness of the wine and the mineral features of the soil. The tannins are well balanced and silky in harmony with red fruits (blackcurrant, blackberry, cherry…) and reveal toasted notes from ageing in the finest quality French oak barrels. Only the very best batches tasted are selected for the final blending of Château Carbonnieux red wines.

Château Carbonnieux white is a legendary wine. It is said that in the 18th century it was introduced to the Sultan of Constantinople’s palace because of its clarity and was called “mineral water from Carbonnieux”, thus defying the Islamic law.

The clay–limestone of Garonne gravel found in the Pessac-Léognan Appellation certainly produces the best dry white wines in the Bordeaux region. When young, Carbonnieux white wines are delightfully refreshing and pure with a fruity, floral intensity. When mature they develop hints of dried and candied fruits giving scope for a large range of gastronomic pairings. The batches which will form part of this “cru classé” will be blended so as to induce an excellent complicity between the grape varieties. The chosen Semillon grapes will add structure to the liveliness of the Sauvignon grapes by giving them roundness and volume on the palate.

In order to keep a healthy vineyard, Château Carbonnieux replants at least one or two plots of vines each year. For several years, these young plants will produce almost nothing, then they will produce grapes whose aromatic characteristics are not sufficiently rich to be included in the composition of a “cru classé” like Château Carbonnieux. This is why the juices of these young plants (for about 12 years) are used to craft second wines. The wines of Château Tour Léognan are blended from young Cabernet Sauvignon and Merlot vines of Château Carbonnieux, they are made with the same cultivation and winemaking care as their elder. These are gourmet and tasty wines, decidedly very pleasant and easy to drink young.

Chateau Tour Leognan

Château Tour Leognan is a blend of Cabernet Sauvignon and Merlot that stands out for its combination of strength and finesse. It is round, fruity, slightly woody and subtly toasted as the wines of this terroir are appreciated.

Chateau Tour Leognan Blanc

Château Tour Leognan is a wine of pleasure, an assemblage characterized by Sauvignon which delivers notes of citrus fruits as well as a fleshy and elegant mouth. This lively and fruity combination is rounded by the sweetness and fatness of Semillon.

La Croix de Carbonnieux wines are a tribute to the Benedictine monks from the Sainte Croix Abbey in Bordeaux who owned the property in the 13th and 18th centuries. The monks, great wine-makers gave Carbonnieux its international reputation and a push towards modernity. Their emblem, the “S” around the Sainte Croix, punctuates the Château landscape in various places and seals on our bottles the trace of their passing in the long history of the estate. Crafted from selections of Château Carbonnieux Cru Classé, the red and white wines from La Croix de Carbonnieux are very appreciated second wines made with all the care devoted to a grand cru.

La Croix de Carbonnieux

has a fine ruby colour and a nose of red fruits with that smoky touch in the wines from Léognan that is so pleasant on the palate. A little less powerful than Carbonnieux and greatly appreciated in gastronomy it can be drunk young and lends itself to a large choice of wine and food pairings.

La Croix de Carbonnieux Blanc

has a pale yellow colour typical of our varieties and a freshness subtly impregnated with aromas of exotic fruits and grapefruit. These wines benefit greatly from the wonderful minerality characteristic of Carbonnieux and the Pessac-Léognan soil. The white Croix de Carbonnieux is a wine for Epicureans.

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