飞行酿酒师Michel Rolland

就像电影界中的史匹堡，Michel Rolland 就是葡萄酒世界的票房保证，请他来当酿酒顾问必定能让酒大卖，他的工作就似寡佬飞行日记里的 George Clooney，终日飞到世界各地（不是炒人），而是到葡萄园当顾问工作，"飞行酿酒师" 这个角色就是由他开创。

Émile Peynaud

Michel 在家族的 Pomerol 酒庄 Le Bon Pasteur 长大，在环境的熏陶加上父亲的支持下，他在中学毕业后就入读了波尔多酿酒学校 Tour Blanche Viticultural and Oenology school。之后更被选中到 Bordeaux Oenology Institute 再修读酿酒课程去跟原本的课程比较，是五位其中之一。就在这里遇见他的妻子 Dany Rolland。也遇到了他之后认为他最好的老师之一，大名鼎鼎的 Émile Peynaud，更称当时的几位老师 Pierre Sudraud，Pascal Ribéreau-Gayon，Jean Ribéreau-Gayon 连同 Émile，为 "Fathers of Modern Oenology."

图片来源：https://www.mdpi.com/2073-4395/9/10/581

之后两人携手到 Libourne 的酿酒研究实验室工作，很快更买入所有股份成为老板。重视科学数据和分析的 Precise Viticulture 当时还未普及，对风土分析、精准地筛选成熟葡萄或各种创新的酿酒工艺等等对于当时的酒庄来说还是非常陌生，所以 Michel Rolland 曾经提到他的酿酒工作中，心理学占了 70%，指的就是如何去说服客户去相信他的建议。

左：Robert Paker，右：Michel Rolland

图片来源：https://www.challenges.fr/lifestyle/michel-rolland-oenologue-bordelais-seigneur-des-chateaux_814742

Wine Searcher 均价三万中的顶级美国 Napa 酒

"I’m not right 100% of the time, so I want to hear what people are saying and understand why they are saying it. I like critics’ comments if they are accurate, constructive and well researched."

"it’s important to have critics. But some criticisms are stupid. For instance the idea that I make the same wine wherever I go. You only have to taste my wines from Spain and South Africa to realise they are completely different. They are different terroirs and different grape varieties. Anyone who thinks my wines all taste the same can’t taste wine."

"Part of the problem is that the critics taste wine too young. Journalists come to Bordeaux in March to taste the new vintage and say the wine has too much oak. This is like saying that a baby in its cot is small. It’s no great surprise that a four-month-old wine that has spent 18 months in barrel is going to taste of oak."

- Michel Rolland, 2003 年 Decanter 访问

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